My own pearl girl and I were eating in Hugo’s pizzeria annex, which serves everything on the regular menu except entrées, plus pizzas and specials. Hugo & Sons is a welcome new addition to a corner of the neighborhood with haughtier entries (American chefs have forgotten how to make anything in between a near-raw sear and dead-and-dry.) Lovers of pearls and diving, come to Brooklyn: I haven’t had cooked tuna this lewd in decades. That chitarra pasta (square-edged, long, spaghetti-like strands made on a traditional, cut-by-hand device) was surprisingly voluptuous, a special one night with unctuous lumps of cooked tuna. The tiny portions and cool welcomes at those eminences should by rights direct diners to this happy, generous new kid on the block.Ī lot of the food will make you smile as warmly as the waitstaff do. ![]() Hugo & Sons, a convivial, three-month-old Italian restaurant in Park Slope, offers a much better experience than its delicious but snooty next-door neighbors, Talde and Applewood. When you pay your hard-earned money to a restaurant, you should be treated as though you were making each staffer’s day just by sticking your foot in the door and exciting them for life just by placing your queenly butt in their chairs.
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